Hyundai 22100-38105 Head Assembly-Cylinder

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Before trying to remove the cylinder head, one has to release the fuel system pressure and hold the end of the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Lower the car and remove the plastic skirt around the engine area and seiously disconnect the engine-cooling system radiator hose and turn off the water circulation pump. Then unbolt the upper and lower intake manifolds, and then exhaust manifold(s); the latter can be left temporarily bolted to the cylinder heads if wanted. Pull out spark plugs and spark plug wires and detach all other sensors and hoses producing a limitation to the spark plug removal process. On 2.7L and 2007 and earlier 3.5L engines, the timing belt must be removed; for 3.3L and 2010 and later 3.5L engines the timing chains should be removed. Continue with the camshafts' extraction, and then slacken the cylinder head bolts by 1/4 turn at a time until they can be fully unbolted, together with their accompanying metal liners, in the reverse of the installation pattern recommended earlier. Remove the cylinder head off the engine block by gently raising it, one side at a time with the aid of a wood block and a hammer but ensure the gasket surfaces are not marred in the process. Place the cylinder head on some woods to avoid scratching and if in doubt, do the same with another head. For measurement, place a scale on the head top and bottom to compare the thickness of both surfaces, making sure that no portion of the gasket is larger than the maximum allowance determined at the beginning of the inspection, combined with scrutinizing for cracks and coolant leakage at the valve seats. Before assembly of both the head and the block, make sure the areas where the two will be mating are clean and make use of gasket scraper and brake system cleaner to remove the carbon and old gasket. To prevent material from getting into the cylinders, the cylinders must be packed with clean shop rags besides using a vacuum cleaner to suck any material trapped in the cylinders. Inspect the block and head mating surfaces for nicks and scratches and remove the rough metal with an file but in a case where the damage is bad you may need to machine it. Thread the boltholes in the cylinder head with a tap, and blow the debris out with compressed air. In case of 2.7L and 3.5 L (2007 and earlier) engines, fit each bolt in a vise and running die on threads to remove corrosion or to restore them, whereas all the head bolts on 3.3L V6 engines are best replaced with the new one. Place the new gaskets over the dowel pins in the block with the identification mark going upward but it is worthy to place a drop of RTV sealant to each end of each of the gasket legs. For 3.3L and 3.5L (2010 and later) V6 engines, the last step is to 'paint' the head gasket end with 3 mm RTV sealant on the engine block before the gaskets are inserted. Place the head gently on the block but do not touch the gasket, and put clean engine oil on the thread and upside of the bolt head Delete and insert the bolts and turn them by hand tightly according to the torque sequence. The rest of the installation is performed in the reverse of the removal process, to which should be added the refilling of the cooling system, changing of the oil and filter, running of the engine and inspection for any signs of leakage.

The details of the removal where that for 1999-2005, one has to relieve the fuel system pressure and then join the negative cable of the battery. Dump the coolant and take off the upper hose to the radiator, next the upper and lower intake manifolds, and at least the exhaust manifold(s), although you may wish to leave these bolted to the cylinder heads. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket(s), spark plug wires, and all the other sensors and hoses which are out of the way of the removal process. Thus, on the vehicles produced after 2006, pull the engine out along with the installation on the engine stand, then remove the intake and exhaust manifold and the camshafts. In all models, turn the cylinder head bolts clockwise till they can be turned anticlockwise by hand, then remove the cylinder head from the engine block, gently using a wooden wedge and hammer if possible. Run a precision straight edge and feeler gauge over the gasket surfaces of each head and examine for cracks & recouse for coolant leakage. Before joining of the cylinder heads and block, the adjacent surfaces should be clean with gasket scraper and brake cleaner also the cylinders should be stuffed with rags to avoid dropping of some particles. Tighten a bolt to way-point torque then loosen to half way and go through the cycle two more times.Inspected the mating surfaces in the cylinder head and block for damages and chased the threads of the bolt holes with a tap and blew out the debris using compressed air for each way. When reassembling the head for 2.5L or 2.7L engines, clean the bolts with a vise, while for a 3.3L V6 engine, change all head bolts. Install new gaskets over the dowel pins in the block while aligning them and apply the RTV sealant. Place the head gently on the block then apply fresh engine oil on the bolt thread and v(undersides) then put and tight the bolts as per the sequence advised. The following installation steps should now be completed in reverse order of the ones listed above: Replace the top of the transmission pan; fill the cooling system; change the motor oil and filter; start the engine; check the cooling system for leaks.

Stuff the cylinders with clean shop rags to keep out debris and use a vacuum cleaner to remove material that falls into the cylinders.

Position the new gasket over the dowel pins in the block and verify that it is installed in the correct orientation.

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